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20 apr

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Upgrading the Olimex A20 LIME2 to 2Gb RAM, by learning to BGA solder and deep diving into the U-Boot bootloader process

Af

As I’ve written about previously I have had the Olimex A20-OLinuXino-LIME2 in service for quite some time. But one thing that I’ve been curious about is why it’s only available with 1Gb of RAM, when the A20 chip itself can support up to 2Gb? Could it be upgraded to 2Gb RAM by a simple swap in of a larger memory module?

If you check the schematic the address lines are actually wired up: both A14 and A15 which are labelled NC (no-connect) on the chips are wired up on the address bus, meaning a full 2¹⁶ row addresses should be addressable. So this might actually work out!

Detour: How do CPUs access memory?

From a very high level the way a CPU accesses memory is the same all the way from a small microprocessor like the RP2040 up to a x86. There are a number of pins connecting the CPU and the RAM:

  • A number of address lines, e.g. A0–A15 in our case. These are always driven by the CPU.
  • A number of data lines, e.g. DQ0–DQ15. These are bi-directional and driven by the CPU for writes, but by the RAM for reads.
  • A couple of signalling lines to control the communication, e.g. the shared clock, or the CPU signaling that the address lines are set with the address for a read, or the RAM signaling that the data lines are populated with the data read out. These can be quite complicated, as seen with DDR3 in this instance, where signalling talks about “banks”, “lower/upper byte data strobe”, “data masks” and “chip select”.

The most crude form of using more than one RAM chip would be to use “chip select” as known from SPI or I2C communication. This is however not how it’s done on the LIME2: address, data and chip select lines are wired in parallel for the two chips. The only difference in wiring is on the “DMU”, “DML”, and “DQSU” and “DQSL” lines: these are used for lower and upper byte data strobes, meaning that the same address is setup for both chips, and then the chips are strobed one at a time – effectively allowing each chip to prepare the read in parallel.

Finding compatible chips with 256Mx16

Luckily DDR chips are standardized, but it seems that the standardisation does not quite go all the way to the datasheets, in e.g. pin naming and concepts. But at least the density and organization are standardised: the 256M is the number of different addressable storage locations, and the x16 is how many bits are stored per location. Multiplying those gives the number of megabits stored, 4096 megabits in this case, so dividing by 8 gives the number of megabytes stored: 512MiB.

Looking at the pinout for the specified chip (K4B4G1646D-BYK0, a Samsung chip):

We can see it specifies only address lines A0–A14, which is enough for a 256M module. But the LIME2 schematic was helpful enough to hookup A15 to the JEDEC standard location, even if that pin is NC on all memory modules shipped. This might actually work!

The last crucial parameter for selecting bigger RAM chips is the supply voltage. DDR3 comes in both standard and low-voltage (DDR3L) variants. The LIME2 schematic actually just specifies that “When DDR3L is used, VDD&VDDQ are set to 1.35V!!!“, so to know which it is we would have to look at the particular board and measure the power supply line. But luckily, almost all DDR3L chips are backwards compatible to the 1.5V DDR3 level, so as long as we can find a DDR3L chip voltage shouldn’t be an issue.

So in theory any 512Mx16 DDR3L chip should work. In practice I ended up trying two variants:

  • Micron MT41K512M16, which seems to be the only option on AliExpress, and cheap, but which (spoiler alert!) I did not get working
  • ISSI IS46TR16512BL, which I did get working, but is more expensive to the point that the two needed RAM chips cost more than the LIME2 itself.

Learning to BGA solder

Finally, we can jump to the microscope soldering station, and learn to BGA solder. This was by far the longest part of this project. The chips come pre-balled, so in theory the job could have been as simple as desoldering the old chips and soldering on the new ones. Not so easy in practice. I ended up having to re-ball and re-solder chips, apply flux, solder-wick and ethanol in copious amount, re-attach SMD resistors that had taken a stroll under the heatgun, and battling a self-compiled U-Boot that I probably messed up badly. You get to see my frustration in a few nice pictures.

I have a suspicion that I messed up U-Boot at one point, by trying to compile it with automatic impedance calibration, instead of leaving the LIME2 defaults DDR settings in. This might be the reason I couldn’t get the Micron MT41K512M16 chips to work, but I will have to investigate this more. I probably also messed up the first soldering on of a chip, by not using enough heat. My main piece of advice would be to not be too afraid to get the temperature of the chip up, if you spend more than about a minute trying to solder or desolder the chip, chances are you will be heating up the rest of the board much more than needed and the chip itself too little!

The moment of seeing the board booting with 1Gb from a single ISSI IS46TR16512BL was a great success though — soldering on the other ISSI chip was basically a walk in the park.

Further U-Boot adventures of a curious character

A serial terminal is absolutely essential for getting any kind of feedback on the early part of the boot process, and the first user-controlled software encountered on the LIME2 is U-Boot. U-Boot is the universal bootloader responsible for figuring out the basic hardware configuration (including RAM configuration), finding the (Linux) kernel and moving it into RAM and giving over control to the kernel for further booting. Curiously, U-Boot can run with absolutely no RAM chips (guess how I know!), because the SunXi early boot process happens entirely in on-chip ROM and a small on-chip SRAM.

But how does U-Boot actually determine how much memory is there? Well, remember that accessing a memory location is just putting an address on the address lines and pulling some signalling pins. So U-Boot simply tries and write to increasing addresses and see if the expected data can be read back. How is the memory size then communicated to the Linux kernel? By a bootarg parameter, e.g. mem=2048M. Does this mean we can try and trick the Linux kernel into thinking it has more memory than physically present? Yes, but with disastrous results if the non-existent memory is ever attempted to be used.

I now possess a unique 2Gb LIME2

Until told otherwise, I will happily claim that this is the only 2Gb LIME2 in existence — but do let me know if you give the procedure a try! In the end the process was much simpler than I thought: the tricky part was definitely getting the hang of BGA soldering. Don’t be afraid of raising the temperature! Peeking into the innards of U-Boot was also fascinating: there is definitely a layer below of pretty dark bit-setting magic, but the overall process is really well structured!

Gemt under: Extern, HAL9k

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06 jan

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Making a too cheap LED lamp safe to use

Af

This could happen to you: A really cool LED lamp was found online, on a Danish and well-written homepage. Unfortunately, when the lamp arrives it is a cheap Chinese production, of questionable quality and safety. This is a non-rational quest to make such a cheap LED lamp safe to use.

From the outset the wires are tiny. The wires are connected with wire nuts *gasp*! (Wire nuts are basically unheard of in Europe). The LED driver itself that converts the 230V AC into DC has absolutely no separation, and as we will see later, absolutely no safety features. It did have a cool feature of changing light color temperature by turning the lamp on and off a couple of times, though.

But happily going to 300mA when shorted, going up to 118V unloaded, and full willingness to spark away, is a deal-breaker. This abomination was not being powered on in this house! It should be possible to replace the unsafe parts with safer (and more expensive) parts.

The first step was understanding the mess of wires. This took quite some pondering to figure out that all the LEDs were basically in series, and that it was wired with a “common positive”, with either the white or the black wire (or both) acting as ground depending on the wanted color temperature.

In the end the entire schematic was reverse engineered.

That LED driver was going nowhere but the electronic garbage bin, so a replacement of decent quality had to be acquired: a constant-current LED driver (configurable from 200mA–350mA) was purchased from a reputable source. That gave the next problem: an LED driver of quality was at least double the size of the unsafe one, and did not fit in the original round enclosure. 3D-printing to the rescue, and a new bigger round enclosure was printed.

Now everything should be able to fit and work! Instead of that illogical wiring of putting the LEDs in series, why not just put the two parts in parallel? Well, that won’t work. Only the path of least-resistance would light up, in this case the dome LEDs. So, back to the original wiring in series.

Unfortunately, the next problem was that the new LED driver was unwilling to drive LEDs as originally wired, that seemed to require somewhere above 45V, out of spec for the new driver. More stuff had to change. Looking at the schematic, the long strip in the circle could be cut in half, and the two half put in parallel instead. This should reduce the power going to those LEDs, and thus also the light output, but should also help to decrease the required voltage. But first I had to learn again the hard way that putting LEDs in parallel they need to match quite closely: the original LED strip had 11 segments, and dividing into 6 and 5 gave lights only in the one part.

Reducing to 5 and 5 segments worked really well!

Finally, the total voltage of putting the two parts of the lamp in series was below what the new LED driver would supply.

The only task remaining was to fit everything back into the enclosure, and add copious amounts of Kapton tape and hot glue. And finally, the spaceman could go star-fishing – safely.

Gemt under: Extern, HAL9k

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21 okt

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Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk! (en historie om det måske værste datasæt i åbne energidata)

Af

Der findes rigtig meget åbent data om det danske energi system hos Energi Data Service, f.x. spot prisen på elektricitet og CO2 prognoser per kWh. Det er dog overordentligt svært at finde den samlede pris man betaler som forbruger per kWh, pga. det uigennemskuelige datasæt over tariffer og priser. I frustration kom udbruddet: “Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk” der nemt summerer alle priser og afgiter per elselskab, er open source og uden yderligere dikke-darer.

Hvad koster strøm i Danmark?

For en forbruger i Danmark er strømprisen en sum af forskellige priser og afgifter, nogle faste, nogle dynamiske:

  • El-afgiften fastsat ved lov til 0,761 kr per kWh.
  • Energinet’s eltariffer: Nettarif på 0,074 kr per kWh (år 2024), og systemtarif på 0,051 kr per kWh (år 2024).
  • Netselskabstarif fra forsyningsselskabet (N1, Radius, etc.): denne varierer per time og per sæson for at forsøge at incentivere til at udligne forbruget så der ikke skal investeres i nye og større elkabler, og er indkodet i datasættet over tariffer og priser. Private forbrugere betaler C-tarif.
  • Spot-prisen: er den anden variable, og denne varierer ud fra udbud og efterspørgsel.
  • Moms: 25% lagt til summen af ovenstående

Dette er alle de uundgåelige priser og afgifter, der kan regnes ud udelukkende fra adressen. Derudover kommer så det “frie elmarked”, hvor der skal betales til et elselskab: typisk månedsabonnement og et tillæg til spot-prisen.

Tariffer og priser – det værste åbne datasæt?

Som om det ikke er uoverskueligt nok i sig selv, bliver vi nødt til at snakke om datasættet Datahub Price List. Der er flere åbenlyse problemer med det:

  • Der er flere felter man burde filtrere efter, men hvor der ikke findes en udtømmende liste over værdier, f.x. netselskab “ChargeOwner”. Det bedste man kan gøre er at downloade, hvor man så løber ind i at download kun giver 100.000 rækker – og datasættet er fuldt på over 300.000 rækker.
  • ChargeTypeCode er per selskab – og uden systematik. Så for hvert enkelt selskab skal man finde ud af hvilken priskode de bruger for C-tariffen. Og hvad når det ændrer sig?
  • ValidTo kan være udeladt og dermed et open ended interval, og prisen gælder så indtil data retroaktivt ændres. Det betyder også at man ikke kan filtrere på datoer, da prisen på 1. april kan være en række der har en ValidFrom 1. januar (eller tidligere).
  • Price1-24: dette er selve timetarif-priserne. Hvis en pris ikke er udfyldt gælder Price1 – hvorfor I alverden dog tilføje den ekstra kompleksitet!?!?!
  • For ikke at tale om tidszoner: man må antage (det er ikke dokumenteret) at alle datoer og timetal er angivet i hvad end tid der er gældende i Danmark på pågældende dato. Dette giver så problemer ved skift fra sommer-/normal-tid hvor en time gentages eller udelades: hvilken timesats bør bruges i et døgn der har 23 eller 25 timer?

Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk!

Efter at have regnet de fleste af de ovenstående problemer ud, skrev jeg en API-proxy der udstiller det API man i virkeligheden vil have: givet en dato, og et elselskab (eller en adresse), returnerer den prisen time for time som et JSON dokument. Prisen er typisk tilgængelig fra kl. 13 dagen før. Som bonus får man også CO2 udledningen med, hvis den er tilgængelig (typisk kl. 15 dagen før). Det er implementeret som en ren API proxy, dvs. det er ren omskrivning af input og data og ikke andet.

Det hele er open source, men der kører en version på elprisen.somjson.dk som frit kan benyttes.

Alternativer

Der findes andre API’er der opfylder forskellige use-cases:

  • Min Strøm API er rigtig modent og har egen forecast model der kan forecaste 7 dage frem, før priserne er låst på Energi Data Service. Kræver en API nøgle og er uden kildekode
  • HomeAssistant energidataservice virker kun med Home Assistant, men fungerer på samme måde mod Energi Data Service.
  • Strømligning API kan bruges til at udregne priser baseret på historisk forbrugsdata. Kan dog også bruges til at hente de forecastede priser. Med rate limiting, og uden kildekode.
  • Carnot har også et åbent API og egen forecast model. Kræver API nøgle, og er uden kildekode.

Gemt under: Extern, HAL9k

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09 okt

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World’s Longest Multi-Cutter Blade: 30 cm

Af

I had a need for an extra-extra long multi-cutter blade, so we made one in Hal9k. Until proven otherwise, we hereby claim it to be the world’s longest, at about 30 cm from rotation point to the cutting edge.

Converting Starlock-MAX to Starlock-Plus

Initially I thought I could get away with just a 80mm long Bosch MAIZ 32 APB which seems to be the longest commercially available. First problem was that my multi-cutter was only “Starlock-Plus” and this blade is Starlock-MAX. Turns out, you can easily get around that: just drill up the hole to 10mm, and it fits like a glove, at least on the Starlock-Plus Bosch GOP 18V-28.
Drilling Starlock-MAX to 10mm makes it a Starlock-Plus.

World record time

But as it turns out, I needed more length, and anything worth doing is worth overkilling! So sacrificing an old worn-out blade by welding on some 2mm steel plate provided a good base that would still attach to the multi-cutter. First attempt was just attaching the blade with two 2mm screws, as these are the largest that will fit in the star’s spikes and thereby prevent rotation. Initial testing:
So next solution was to beef up with a central 8mm bolt instead.
This worked much better if torqued enough (read: all you possibly can!), test-run went great after the initial oscillations:
And ultimately the cut in the tight corner was made, one-handedly in order to be able to film:
Great success! This should not be considered safe, and several warranties were probably voided, but it got the job done.

Gemt under: Extern, HAL9k

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15 feb

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Reparation af Nordlux IP S12 badeværelseslampe der ikke lyser længere

Af

Denne badeværelseslampe er udgået af produktion, og pga. monteringen og at man ofte har mere end én er det noget træls at skulle udskifte – det giver ihvertfald en del skrot uden grund. Heldigvis er konstruktionen super simpel: det er udelukkende en LED driver (230V AC til 24V DC) og en LED.

Lad os starte med det nemme: LED-driveren er direkte tilgængelig bagfra, og med lidt forsigtighed kan spændingen udmåles. I dette tilfælde var der ca. 24V DC, og det er jo fint indenfor specifikationen.

Selve LED’en er lidt sværere at komme til: fronten af glasset skal drejes af via de to huller deri. Jeg brugte en låseringstang af ca. korrekt dimension, med lidt forsigtighed. Lidt ridser gør nok ikke det store når lyset skinner. LED’en kan nu loddes af.

En ny LED kan købes for ca. 10 kr, f.x. på AliExpress. Det rigtige søgterm er måske “Bridgelux 2020 COB LED”, jeg endte med en 7W i Warm White (3000 Kelvin).

Efter lidt fidlen og lodden er den nye LED monteret, og kan testes. Stor succes!

Gemt under: Extern, HAL9k

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